DIY Pocket Chart Calendar

 

PocketChart

Most ready made pocket charts are pretty hideous, less than sturdy and fairly expensive for what you get.  When I found these beautiful calendar cards on 1plus1plus1equals1, I knew I needed to try to make a pocket chart worthy of displaying them.

If you would like to make your own you will need:

  • A piece of heavy fabric (if using regular cotton or other lightweight fabric, attach fusible interfacing to the back) the size you want your completed pocket chart to be, PLUS four inches extra added to the height (I wanted my finished chart to be 28″ x 28″ so I cut my fabric to 28″ x 32″)
  • A 1/2″ wooden dowel the width of your pocket chart MINUS 3″ (my dowel is 25″)
  • 1/4 yard of premium vinyl
  • Coordinating thread and bias tape (I needed 3 packages)
  • Dry erase marker
  • Carpenter or quilting square
  • Sewing supplies
  • Grommets (2-4)

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1. Find the top of your fabric.  On the WRONG side press under 1/2″.

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 2. Press again at 1 1/2″. Sew close to pressed edge. This will provide a nicely finished top and a thick layer of fabric to attach your grommets to later.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the bottom edge.  This will create a casing for the dowel.

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4. Using the square and a fabric pen or chalk, mark horizontal lines for the pocket placement.  I wanted 7 rows for my chart so there is room for a title and 6 rows for calendar dates.   My cards are 3.25″ tall, so I marked horizontal lines every 3.5″ to allow a little space between each row.

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5.  Use a dry erase marker and the square to draw your pockets on the vinyl.  My pockets are 2″ tall and 28″ wide (the width of the chart).  Cut out the vinyl with a utility scissors, please do not use your fabric scissors!

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6.  Cut 7 pieces of bias tape, each the width of the pocket chart.  Attach to one long edge of each pocket with paper clips.

7.  Sew the bias tape to the vinyl using the longest stitch possible (on my machine this is “4”).

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 8.  Pin each vinyl pocket to the chart as shown.  Note – the bias tape is the bottom of the pocket.  Sew each pocket to the chart, again using a long stitch.

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9. Next, use the square and a dry erase marker (only on the vinyl) to mark the vertical line placement.  Sewing along these lines will create a pocket for each card.

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10.  The next step can be a little tricky…sewing along each vertical line.  When you sew directly on the vinyl it rends to stick to the presser foot.  To prevent this I place a napkin on each side of the sewing line, which allows the presser foot to glide.  (I have also heard that putting scotch tape on your presser foot will work, if you don’t mind sticky residue on the foot when you are done).  Use your longest stitch and sew up from the bottom so you don’t catch or wrinkle the pockets while sewing.

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 11.  Almost done!  Cut 2 more pieces of bias tape, each 1″ longer than the chart (mine were 29″).  Fold and press each end in 1/2″.  Pin one piece of bias tape to the right side of the chart, encasing all vinyl edges.  Sew.

12.  Insert dowel into bottom casing, sliding it all the way to the right.

13.  Attach and sew remaining piece of bias tape to the left side as directed in step 11.  Center the dowel in the casing.

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 14.  Add 2-4 grommets to the top casing.

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 15.  Hang and enjoy!

After discovering how easy sewing with vinyl could be I went a little crazy.  I made:

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Pencil pouches,

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a pocket chart for our artist studies,

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more pocket charts

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and even a pocket chart to hold the cards for the other pocket charts!

DIY Sensory Room

 

 We have had sensory areas throughout our home for many years but longed for a “real” sensory room.  The cost of setting up my dream room from Snoezelen was many thousands of dollars and would clearly never happen.  I spent hours pouring through websites, catalogs and Pinterest for ideas and eventually came up with a list of our “must haves”.  Next I determined what I could make myself, how to replicate some sensory items with items that were similar in effect (but with a much smaller price tag), and what I would need to purchase.  I researched products and prices all over the globe!  Nearly every product was much more expensive through special needs catalogs/suppliers than it was anywhere else (toy stores, teacher supply stores, Amazon, pet stores, etc.).

Another consideration was that our room still had to serve as a physical therapy room, play room and homeschool room so the sensory items had to fit into the space without taking over.    

 

 This is our reading nook.  The white board is made from a piece of shower board, the fabric organizer holds the markers.  I made a blanket and furry pillow to provide different textures.

The lights are outdoor Christmas globes that we have had for several years but never used.  I tied leftover white tulle together and wrapped it around the globes to soften the light.

The chandelier adds some sparkle, especially when other lights are on in the room.  I used fishing line to attach beads to a  metal base (which held lotion received as a Christmas gift last year). 

We have swing hooks attached to the ceiling beams at each end of the room so at least two people can swing at the same time.  This is a Currambera Hammock Swing Lounger.  It’s very soft and supportive with a weight limit of 300 pounds so it can hold two people (the colors are really fun too!).

 

Just to the right of the reading nook I added an LED color changing bulb.  There is a remote control making it very interactive.  You can choose one specific color, fading colors of different speeds or even flashing and strobe light effects.  I hung a paper lantern from the dollar store over the bulb to soften and diffuse the light.

 I hung a white sheet over a large bookcase, to reduce visual clutter and serve as a screen for lighting effects.  I installed blacklights ($12 each from Menards) to both sides

 as well as the ceiling in front of the bookcase.  This provides plenty of light for our sensory table.

 I found a bag of random wooden items (beads, blocks, craft sticks, etc.) for $2 and painted everything in a variety of florescent paint colors.  I also added inexpensive items as I found them such as random fluorescent KNEX parts ($.50), jelly bracelets ($1), pony beads ($3), pipe cleaners ($2), and a number of Glo Fish aquarium accessories from the local pet store.

I made a large Lite Brite with a scrap of peg board, duct tape and pool noodles.  The “pegs” are simply fluorescent pipe cleaners cut into thirds.   

Of course the sensory table is fun with the lights on, too.

 

Most sensory rooms feature lighting effects.  There are projectors, rotators and wheels required putting the cost well over $1,500!  This is way out of our price range, plus I wanted something portable so it could be used in the bathroom (J will not take a bath, but she will go in a sensory tub – I’ll post on that another time) and bedrooms as well.  Our solution is the Aurora.  There are no wheels to change and it was a grand total of $15.55 including the adapter!  The colors can be changed, steady, fading slowly or changing quickly.  The lights have a very soothing wave like movement.  It can powered with an adapter or with batteries.  The Aurora works in a small room or large room, covering the walls and ceiling.  The photos above show some of the different settings on our white screen (sheet). 

 Our top priority for our sensory room was a bubble tube column.  The cost for a bubble column corner (mirrors, column and platform) was a minimum of $3,800 – again, that was out of the question!  

I figured out how to make a bubble tube, mostly using aquariumaquariumaquariumaquarium supplies.  However, the cost of the acrylic cylinder alone was cost prohibitive.  I did find some portable bubble columns that were more affordable but they were also pretty small.  Finally, I discovered Sensamart when I ordered some of their chewies through a different catalog.  I checked out their website and found this amazing bubble column for only $119.  At over 4 feet tall and 4″ in diameter it’s the perfect size for our space.  The colors fade gently and the bubble speed is adjustable.    

 Acrylic mirrors were much more expensive than I imagined they would be.  I purchased one large mirror and attached it to the wall, it was very thin and at $50, still more than I wanted to spend.  So, for the other side of the corner, I attached mirror trays with Command Velcro strips.  The trays were only $22 for a set of six and are very sturdy.  We can also remove them to use with the light table and other projects. 

 I built the padded bubble column platform myself for just under $13.  See the tutorial here.  It’s very comfortable, padded and the perfect size for our space while still roomy enough for two.

 Next to the bubble tube is our crash pit.  I was super excited to discover A K Athletics.  They offer affordable crash pits, gym mats and other foam products in custom colors.  We chose a purple crash pit, 60″ x 60″.  The pit has a full floor mat which makes it very sturdy, more shock absorbent and allows  the pit to be moved easily.  Every once in a while I slide it out into the middle of the room and let the children crash into it from the trapeze bar or buoy swing.

 Cloud Nine is L’s favorite activity at occupational therapy.  Again, it was not in the budget.  Also, it wasn’t the right size and I really didn’t like the grey colored cover.  So I waited until just before Halloween when this ultra soft teal velour was on sale at Hancock Fabrics for only $2.30 a yard. I purchased nine yards and made a cover to fit the crash pit, then stuffed it with chunks of high density foam.  The bottom has a velcro opening so the foam can be refilled or removed for washing.

 More Command Velcro strips on the walls allow for hanging panels (like the latches board).  I can easily change the panels without damaging the wall.

I also added glow in the dark stars from the dollar store and self-adhesive mirror circles around the room to reflect the lights.

Above the crash pit is my favorite light feature.  I found LED rope lights on clearance at Walmart for $6.  I bought two sets and attached them to the ceiling beams with the included clips.  I found 20 yards of blue shimmer fabric at the thrift store for $4!  I folded it in half and hung it over the rope lights.  I made the light blocking curtain from leftover fabric from another project.

The crash pit in action! 

We saw a linelite shower here.  However, at $225 it was another out of budget item.  I made my own budget friendly version for $25 using a thick piece of rigid foam cut into a circle and then attaching fluorescent parachute cord.

     

 The little glowing eggs in the photos are Oggz.  They slowly change colors and can be moved and carried around the house.  It comes with a charging base so there are no batteries to replace.

   

 The glowing round balls are swimming pool toys purchased at Walmart for $2.50 each.  The colors slowly change or can be set to a steady glow of one color.  They float in water which makes a nice addition to water play in the sensory table.

Swinging… 

 There is still plenty of space in the middle of the room for physical therapy, obstacle courses, playing in the Sensory Hot Dog (above)…

 and playing with the Lego and Activity table (tutorial here).

DIY Bubble Column Platform

 

When designing our sensory room I knew I wanted a platform for the bubble column.  The primary reason – to keep it from tipping over, secondly for a comfortable place to sit or curl up and enjoy the bubbles.  I looked at many platforms online and in catalogs but I couldn’t find one that would work for us.  They were all too expensive, the wrong size/shape and were covered in white (or institutional blue) vinyl.  Sensory wise, my kiddos prefer soft fabrics and typically don’t like the feel or “coldness” of vinyl.  I didn’t like white – I wanted a darker color that would kind of disappear in low lighting.  And I am personally sick of the institutional blue color that every special needs or therapy product seems to come in.  So, I decided to make a platform myself…

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I used scrap wood (2×6’s) to build a frame.  I added support in the middle so the platform would be sturdy and not bounce; and left an area in the back (bottom right in the photo) to hold the base of the bubble column and allow for the electrical cord to go through.

I used wood screws to attach a sheet of plywood on top of the base (ours was 29.5″ inches square).  Next, I marked where the column would need to go through the platform and drilled a one inch hole in the middle.  Then I could get the jigsaw blade inside the circle and cut it out.  I did a dry fit over the bubble column to check placement and size.  I wanted to have a little room around the column to allow for upholstering but not so much space that things would get dropped into the crevice.  I did have to enlarge my first cut to get just the right fit. Then I sanded all the edges and rounded the corners a bit.  I also wrapped the cut out for the column in duct tape to prevent the bubble column from getting scratched.

While it would have been easier to have one large piece of high density foam to use for the cushion, I had several smaller pieces that came as packing material for the crash pit.  Since thick, quality foam is quite expensive I decided to use what we already had available (“free” generally wins at our house).  I used a little tacky glue to attempt to hold the foam in place after I had it cut and arranged.  However, that did NOT work.

I wrapped the top and sides of the platform in quilt batting and attached it with my upholstery stapler which did keep the foam in place.

I found some soft knit fabric and Walmart  for $1.50 a yard!  I love the gold flecks.  Because it is thinner than upholstery fabric, I folded it in half and sewed around the edges creating a two-ply fabric before securing it with the upholstery stapler.

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Figuring out how the finish the hole for the column took a little thought…

I poked a hole in the center of the circle, then cut towards the edge making four triangle flaps.  I cut a piece of thick black felt into four equal rectangles, then sewed the long edge of each rectangle to the knit fabric, creating a four flaps.  Once the flaps were each tucked inside, none of the wood or foam was visible.

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I positioned the bubble column where I wanted it, lifted the platform over the top and plugged in the motor.

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Finished!

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Plenty of room to sit (photo taken before I added the mirrors)
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Two children can fit on the platform…

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Mirrors in the corner add so much!  Unbreakable acrylic mirrors are expensive as well, so I bought one large mirror for the wall and attached three mirrored trays (with Command Velcro strips) to the bookcase side of the corner.  They were only $5 each and I can take them down to use with the light table, building blocks, symetry, etc.

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My 15 year old even has plenty of room to sit…

Cost Breakdown:

wood scraps for frame: free (on hand)

plywood top: $8.00

foam for seat: free

batting: on hand

fabric: $4.50

felt: on hand

Total cost: $12.50!

Pretty amazing, especially considering that to purchase a platform would be at least $600, and would still not be in the color or fabric that we wanted.

Easy DIY Reversible Lego Activity Table with Storage

I wanted a reversible Lego and activity table for my children.  I looked at new and used tables but could not find any that would work for us.  The new tables were too expensive, most were flimsy, too small, too short and lacked storage.  So, I designed and built my own table.  The children love to play on it and I am in love with the storage!   Legos are great for building, fine motor skills, creative play, etc. but my kiddos NEVER wanted to put away or take apart ANY of their creations.  So, we moved the Legos off the dining room table when it was time to eat, moved them off the couch when we wanted to sit and I basically spent hours (well, it seemed like it) moving Legos around every day.  Now we can put the finished creations in the table when it’s time to use the table for something else (light box time, playdo, puzzles, etc.).  Also, we never had a good place to keep our light box before.

Supply List:

  • 2′ x 4′ plywood 3/4″
  • 2′ x 4′ hardboard or 1/4″ plywood
  • (2) 1×8 at 4′ feet length each
  • (2) 1×8 at 2′ length each
  • (1) 2 foot long 2×2
  • (4) 1×2 at 2′ length each (or one board 8′ long)
  • (4) 1×2 at 4′ length each (or 2 8′ boards)
  • wood screws
  • wood glue
  • wood filler
  • (2) handles (optional)
  • primer
  • paint
  • polyurethane
  • chalk board paint
  • (8) Lego baseplates 10″ x 10″
  • Loctite for plastic
  • *Optional: wood for legs or pre-finished legs in desired length

Tools Needed:

  • screwdriver
  • drill
  • sander and sandpaper
  • saw (power or hand)
  • tape measure
  • square
  • paint brush
  • paint roller

**All joints are made by applying wood glue, pre-drilling countersink holes and then screwing together with wood screws.  Use the longest screw possible without going all the way through the second piece of wood.  I used screws in three sizes for this project: 3/4″, 1 1/4″ and 2″.  i prefer to use screws with square drilling points since they don’t strip as easily as the standard heads.

1. Build a rectangle shaped box with the 2×8’s.  For strength, alternate boards so they attach at the end on the right, and on a side on the left (see photo); using a carpenter’s square to check each corner.

2. Cut 3/4″ off of the end of each of four 1×2’s.  These will be the furring strips to support the bottom of the storage compartment.  Line up each piece so it is flush with the outside of the box.  Overlap previous joints (like building with Legos) to increase strength and attach.

3. Now flip the box over so that the furring you just added is on the bottom.

4. Use a jigsaw or handsaw to cut the hardboard so that it fits snugly inside the box (mine is 23 1/4″ x 47 1/4″).  *Covering the area to be cut with masking tape prevents chipping of hardboard, plywood, etc..  Attach board to furring strips.  Avoid using screws in the four corners if you plan to attach legs later.

5. Cut the 2×2 into four 4.5″ pieces (these will be the supports to line up the upper furring strips and will also provide a place to attach optional legs later).

6. Attach one support in each corner.

7. Cut each of the two remaining four foot 1×2’s into lengths of 47 1/2″. Attach vertically to the inside of the box (one on each side) resting on the supports placed in step 6. Cut the remaining two foot 1×2’s into lengths of 21 3/4″ and attach as shown.

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8. Fill all screw holes with wood filler and allow to dry.

9. Check the fit of the plywood top now. It should be large enough so that it overhangs and rests on the furring strips, but there also needs to room to easily lift it up without scraping the sides of the table (Remember that primer, paint and poly will add additional width). I needed to sand down about 1/16″ on one end. Next, mark the center of the table top and drill holes to attach a handle on each long side, about 1″ from the edge (be certain the handle will clear the furring strips when inside of the table). Attach one handle on the side for the Lego plates, flip the top over and attach a handle on the chalkboard side. *Alternately, you could drill finger holes and skip adding handles.

10. Sand the entire piece thoroughly, paying special attention to joints.  I also semi-rounded every side of every board (inside, outside and corners) to ensure there would be no sharp edges anywhere.

11. At this point you can add leg hardware if desired. There are too many styles and sizes of legs to list here. I chose to use a plate system (4 plates at $1.56 each). Once the plates are installed you simply screw in the legs of your choice. The plates I selected are 2 1/2″ square so I attached an additional 1×2 to the bottom of each end of the table. This provided a 3″ square area to attach the plates.

 

13. Paint entire piece.  I painted the chalkboard side of the top first since it requires three coats and at least 3 days for curing. 

I used a scissors to poke four holes on the bottom of a cardboard box and used that to hold the legs in place while drying.

14.  Apply 3 coats of polyurethane to the base, allowing each coat to dry and sanding lightly (I use a sanding sponge for this) in between coats.  Do not apply poly to the table top at this point.  You will not apply poly to the chalkboard side at all, applying poly to any exposed areas on the Lego side should be done after attaching the Lego plates to ensure adhesion.

15. Apply felt bumpers to the top of the furring strips that support the table top.  This will prevent scratching.

16. Arrange Lego plates as desired on table top.  **Very important: use Lego bricks to connect each plate to the others.  This will give you the correct spacing so that lego structures can be built and secured anywhere on the table.  Use Loctite for plastic to adhere the plates and either clamp until dry or place heavy items such as books on top of the plates.

*If you have younger children and want to start with Duplos, I recommend attaching the Duplo plates with Command velcro strips.  This will hold the plates securely but still allow you to remove them and switch to Legos in the future.

17. Screw in the legs, insert the top and you are finished!

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 The legs are 21″.  This makes the table the perfect height to work with our fit balls, chairs, stools or just standing.

The purple chair used to look like this.  I found it at the thrift store for $2.75 and primed and painted it while I was working on the table.

Cost:

Lumber, screws and wooden legs were $46.  I used aspen, you could use pine and cut the cost dramatically.

Lego plates were $4.99 each from Amazon, I used 8 for a total of $40.  If you use fewer base plates or already have the plates, your cost will be less.

I needed to purchase chalk board paint ($13), primer (Zissner 123 $11) and paint (Valspar enamel in Sugar Plum $14).  I do have quite a bit of paint leftover for future projects.  Again, if you already have the paint you need it will reduce the cost of the project.

Total: $124

Time:

One afternoon to build the table, 5 days for priming, painting, applying poly and curing/drying.  *It was in the 50’s when I started and snowing by the time it was finished!  Cold temperatures increase drying time.

Vintage Play Kitchen

Vintage Play Kitchen

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J needed a new play kitchen – the pink Little Tikes kitchen that had been so much fun for her older sister was too small and not “real” enough.  Her feeding therapist hoped that more interaction with pretend food would lessen her aversions to real food. I looked in stores and online but couldn’t find anything (affordable) that was large enough for a child who was nearly nine.  So I went to my all-time favorite resource…yup, Pinterest.  There were so many fantastic ideas that I had a plan in no time.

DSCN4472I picked up this thingamajig (no idea what is was in it’s former life) for $3 at the thrift store.  I scrubbed it, cut a door and a shelf and added a larger top.  Primed the whole thing, then painted it a creamy off white.  The top and door where painted vintage teal.  I taped off squares on the top which I painted red to simulate tile.  A glass knob on the door, some hooks and accessories and the new island was done!

DSCN4484                                   DSCN4569                                     DSCN45702I found this giant, heavy, oak entertainment center on Craig’s list for $50.  After cleaning it I taped around and spray painted the glass (on the inside) with frosted glass spray paint.  This part would become the refrigerator.

center                              DSCN44742Next I cut out a hole for the sink (aka stainless steel mixing bowl) and drilled holes for the faucet (Menards – I think it’s intended for a wet bar).DSCN4475

And cut out the inside of one door so I could add plexiglass for the oven door.

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Painted the inside of the over black, then splattered with white and dark blue, added a push light and found a rack to fit inside the oven…

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Spray painted the rack black…

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Glued on the stove burners (coasters from Target) and decoupaged oven controls I had printed off, drilled three holes and installed painted wooden cabinet knobs in the middle of the controls.  This way you can turn the knobs and “adjust” the temperature.  Remember, it had to be “real”! 

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More storage under the sink. I sewed a little curtain to conceal the sink and attached it with a tension rod. The sink comes out so I can empty the water.  (Yes, J uses water and really washes her play dishes)!


 

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Dish drying rack stored under the sink.

                       

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All of the pots and pans are real, most from the Goodwill and thrift stores. Real spagetti in an old large creamer bottle.


 

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Reversible apron and potholders I sewed to coordinate.


 

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Vintage fabric for reversible apron.


 

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An Ikea handle and hooks hold cooking utensils.

  

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Washing the dishes.


 

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Stocked refrigerator – I cut scrap wood, painted and decoupaged labels for butter, soymilk, etc. The regular milk is actually Elmers Glue (I filled the milk jug half way and hot glued the cap) so it looks like she is pouring it and and feels heavy.

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Brownies made from scraps of wood.


 

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Order forms from Walmart. J loves to play restaurant and she is working on math and social skills while she is playing!


 

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I splurged and ordered a few menu covers from a restaurant supplier. I can print off the menus and just slip them inside.

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Cookie dough and cookies I made out of felt – cookies can be “cut out” and frosted.


 

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I also sewed sets of reversible placemats.


 

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I saved labels from our real canned goods and decoupaged them on to small cans.

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J will likely play with this kitchen set for many years.  As she gets older and taller I can add short wooden legs to the bottom to raise it up.

Bathroom Reno (on a budget)

Although we school year-round, this year I took 2 weeks off in August to get ready for the new school year and do a few projects around the house.  My first priority was our (only) bathroom.  This reno was long over due but it was terrifying to contemplate tearing everything apart while trying to prevent everyone from touching everything anything while it was drying, etc.  Finally, with my oldest at camp (there was at least less traffic in the room) I bit the bullet.

    DSCN5785DSCN5783DSCN5784DSCN5782These are (obviously) the before photos.  I thought about saying this was a bathroom update, but that kind of implies that there was a point in history when it was up tp date.  Dark paint, mismatched fixtures (brass, stainless steel, bronze and satin nickel) and lack of storage created a messy and depressing space.

Phase One:

I removed the cabinet over the toilet, the TP holder and all hooks, etc.  Next I patched and painted the walls (Valspar “Airy” in satin).  I sprayed the glass cabinet doors with frosted glass paint that I had leftover from the Vintage Play Kitchen.  Next I scrubbed and sanded the cabinet then painted the drawers and doors white and the remainder bluish teal (I mixed this color from leftover paint I had on hand).  After three coats of paint I brushed on a clear protective coat.  Before we only kept a few “pretty” items inside because of the clear glass, now the girls can store all their things in the cabinet and no one can see in!  I added a new TP holder and wall hooks in satin nickel.

 DSCN5802Phase Two: I removed the light fixture above the mirror as well as the outlet/switch covers, sanded them down and then spray painted them with satin nickel spray paint.

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Phase Three:  This was the part I was really dreading…

I removed all the cabinet doors, drawers and hardware.  Then I used a flathead screw driver to pry out all of the little wooden buttons.  Following the directions in the Cabinet Transformations kit, I cleaned and deglossed everything.  Next I used a putty knife to fill in all the grooves and holes with Plastic Wood (it took three thin coats to do this and the smell was beyond obnoxious).  After the Plastic Wood was dried thoroughly I sanded everything smooth.  I was finally ready to apply the bond coat and decided to start with the doors since they would take longer.  I applied the first coat and let dry, the second coat, the third, and even a fourth but as soon as the paint dried all the wood grain began to show through!  I finally got a can of BIN primer, primed everything and then started all over.  Altogether it took a week to apply the bond coats, primer and then bond coats again.  I didn’t want glaze on the white cabinets so I skipped that step and applied the two coats of “protective top coat”.  Last, I installed new nickel hinges and new pulls.

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Phase Four:. I picked up some super light weight poly trim, cut it to size and attached it to our giant builder grade mirror with mirror safe adhesive.  I taped the trim to mirror to keep it from sliding around let it set over night, then used wood putty on the joints, sanded and painted the trim to match the cabinetry.  Finally I installed a Tarket floating floor, painted the floor trim and added finishing touches like the new vent cover, door knob, toothbrush holder, shower curtain and children’s water color paintings in repurposed wood frames.

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Cost Breakdown: Blue paint $20, BIN primer $13, DAP Plastic Wood $10 (Hardware Hank); toilet paper holder $6, shower rod $20, satin nickel spray paint $7, satin nickel hooks $12 for seven, Tarkett flooring $46, Loctite for mirrors $6, 3 pieces of poly trim $18, floor transition strip $10 (Menards); two drawer pulls $12, cabinet knobs $19 (Target); Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations $70, self closing satin nickel hinges $24 (Home Depot); I had picture frames, paint brushes, roller covers, spackle and the shower curtain on hand already.

Final Thoughts: If I was going to do this project again (knowing what I know now) I would NOT buy the Cabinet Transformations.  It would be much less expensive to just purchase deglosser, primer, paint and clear poly in the amounts needed.  There is nothing magincal about the kit – it is just most of the things you need packaged in one box…

Update: I was at Target picking up some prescriptions and was beyond thrilled to see that they now carry Ball canning jars in vintage blue!  I replaced the two larger jars with the new Ball jars in blue.